Climbing the grade of Siskiyou Pass from Ashland, OR headed for the Wild and Scenic Klamath River, we emerged out of the Rogue Valley fog and into the brilliance of Mt Shasta, bright with the alpenglow, south of a cloudless sunrise.

At the bottom of the draw between the two mountain ranges and states, the river is visible only briefly as an alluring ribbon of tea colored water and swaying chartreuse weed beds before it disappears west around a volcanic corner and through the gates of the Klamath Mountains.

Following the river and looking forward to a wonderful day fly fishing for chrome, bright steelhead and half-pounders our building anticipation was aided by the morning buzz delivered by steaming mugs of French pressed coffee.

The canyon walls steepened and the presence of Autumn was everywhere. Salmon anglers sat in drift boats, bouncing roe in their favorite haunts. Furthur Oak trees just touched by the oranges and yellows of autumn mixed with the emeralds and reds of the pines. Rugged peaks rose above it all, some still showing scars of recent fires and the patchwork of renewal fire brings. The river was glorious, reaching out as if to say “My fish are here, my fish are back”

Stepping into the Klamath for me is like stepping back in time where life is simple, the river provides and fishing is what it should be. But Impacted by dams, drought and poor water management, the Klamath steelhead and salmon numbers suffered have suffered historically, especially in 2016 and & 2017. But all indications now are pointing to a strong return in 2018 and 19 - Mostly thanks to better water management that flushed out disease and favorable ocean conditions.

As I stepped into my first run of the day, I couldn’t help but be filled to the brim with optimism. Could this legendary river in the mythical state of Jefferson finally be back?

I began my first cast with a snap T. It was my first whirl with a new stick, a Jefferson Rod Company 12’6” 5wt Spey rod, and this standard snap-T cast seemed like the best way to put it through the paces. Then not five swings into the run and my mind already pondering other casts to try, I was rudely interrupted by a fierce yank and deep head shakes. I was not expecting a fish here but the growls of my reel and deep bend of the rod told otherwise, a reminder to not throw it in there until your ready…

Hooked up on a Klamath River Salmon, Spey Fishing

The Chinook that came to hand was a beautiful wild hen. Bridget masterfully tailed her. My wife has probably handled more fish in her fisheries career then I ever will. We kept the fish wet and snapped a few pictures. Bridget estimated it was 800-900 mm, or 30 + inches for us non-metric folks, and her belly was softening, indicating she was soon to spawn. Not what we were after, but it’s rad when a nookie cranks on a swung wet fly just under the surface!

It didn’t take long for the river’s renewed life to become apparent after that first run.

We floated over our first tailout and like little kids, we exclaimed “there’s one, there’s another!” The Salmon were podded in groups of several dozen fish and clearly visible, especially to Bridget’s keen eyes. We saw hundereds upon hundreds darting to and fro, mostly uprover.

After such an entrance, fishing was an after thought, we floated through the first mile of river marveling in the unmistakable Salmon scattering in all directions, musing about the amazing life cycle of these fish and taking in the beauty and abundance the river showed.

Wild and Scenic Klamath Fly Fishing Trips

Stopping at one of my favorite runs, a piece of water about 200 yards long and with consistent depth and speed to hold steelhead year-round, my second cast came tight to a fish that erupted out of the water, leaping to eye level before throwing the fly as fiercely as it had taken it. I estimate it was in the mid-20’s, very large for a Klamath Steelhead and hotter then hell.

Our next stop was a run named Holy Cow, fished often and affectionately by a few local guides. Perhaps you know of it too? Just a few little grabs here but a nice run to air out my new Jefferson Rod and decide what the right balance is for a skagity/scandi line. Look for a full rod review in the coming weeks on this awesome, locally built, light spey rod!

Lunch on the river was a casual affair and right on another of my favorite pieces of water. We enjoyed homemade chili and cornbread by Bridget with a good NW beer. Sometimes it’s the simple things in life that are the best. Confined to the boat, Tucker was anxious to stretch his legs on land, so after eyeing what must have looked like a patch of river side grass, he plunged head first off the boat and unsuspectedly into a mat of river slime. You should have seen the look on his face when he popped up!

After lunch we continued to fish. At the end of the lunch run my fly came across a juicy rock where I hoped the take would happen. But It just continued swimming, unmolested and untouched. How many hopeful moments like this in steelheading have ended this way!

I began to step down, stripping my fly in just with just a few casts to go, when the hammer came down and the loops I had collected raced back through my fingers, out the guides and on to the reel with a loud “ZZZZEEEEEE!”

FISH ON!

It doesn’t happen all that often but steelhead do take on the strip from time to time.

Klamath River Steelhead, Spey Fly Fishing

The vistas and fine fishing on the Wild and Scenic Klamath continued, seductive water around each bend taking us deeper into the canyon and the mythical state of Jefferson. It’s not the steepest and it’s not the deepest but it is one of the most magical places to fish in California.

Working water and in no particular hurry we continued to sample some of the rivers best holding lies. This section we floated holds everything from deep and bouldery runs to shallow spawning gravel and everything in between. We fished half-assed and joyfully sometimes serious, sometimes not. In most runs we fished we were rewarded with hard-pulling, adult, wild steelhead and a few half pounders. Doing my due diligence on this scouting trip I even lobbed a bob in a few buckets and was delighted to experience a couple of incredibly hot steelhead peel line and go totally nuts. It’s beginning to feel a whole lot like the Klamath is back.

The last run of the day and one of my favorites on the whole river is split by an island with a smooth surface and a perfect speed. Enough depth forms just in the middle to consistently hold fish and they feel comfortable in the shade made by the old growth trees on the banks.

I cast my waking fly across for a quick skittering swing, the fly waking a subtle vee and as it approached the sweet spot a perfect buck erupted on the fly, ripping 40 yards off quickly and assertively. Another line-peeling run and a few more eye level jumps brought the fish to hand. Admiring it’s perfect proportions, the buck had just a touch of blush on his cheek and the beginnings of a red stripe but still dark on the top and chrome underneath. This fish had traveled over 100 miles from the ocean and would remain in the river for months before spawning. Fresh steelhead like him will arrive in the Klamath throughout the Fall, Winter and Spring.

Reeling up and walking back to the boat I couldn’t help but smile as a sense of contentment and satisfaction washed over me. It was a good day and the fishing was as it should be. The cares of every day melt away, the company is good and the river provides.

Dry fly Spey Fishing Klamath River Steelhead

It’s finally rained, after what has seemed like far to long for such a mundane fact of life like weather.

The clouds reared up against the Klamath mountains and at long last, have quenched for a time the dust and ash, fire and smoke that’s plagued the State of Jefferson for months.

The smell of the coming rain was palpable as I approached the mountains’ southern flanks, driving north and home from the Shadow of Shasta after a fun day introducing fly fisherman to the Upper Sacramento’s Wild Trout.

It’s a good sign for Fall fishing in Southern Oregon and Northern California and after such a hot and smokey summer. I hope it’s welcome relief for more then just a fly fishing guide.

This first rain for many is the unofficial kickoff of steelhead season; a time of high hopes for fresh chrome and magical days in their pursuit. For all fisherman though, including trout anglers, the changing of seasons is always a great time to be out on the water. Sometimes fish feel the relief too.

As Shasta faded into the rearview mirror, the patter increased with each upward bend of the road, over the Klamath River’s tea colored waters, finally through the fresh scar left by the Hornbrook fire. Kind of like me, it looks better after a shower.

I’m Looking forward to a Fall season of tight lines, leaping fish and many fond memories. Hopefully a few will have a dripping hat brim and rain jacket somewhere along in the story.