The 2026 hosted weeks in Xcalak marked my seventh week in this incredible fishery. Located at the literal end of the road in Southern Mexico, you’re so close to the Belizean border that your "international" roaming plan still dings you with a "Welcome to Belize" message and an extra charge on your card. In this part of the world, airplane mode is the best way to fish. Even with the addition of Starlink back at the lodge, once you’re out on the flats, the rest of the world simply fades away.
I’ve started booking these expeditions for two weeks at a time. Five days just isn't enough to settle into the rhythm of the flats, which is a world apart from our home river fishing. It takes time to recalibrate your eyes to recognize a ghost-like shadow in the water and to adjust your line speed and casting angles for targets that are always on the move.
Week One: The Veteran Crew
Our first group was met with quintessential Caribbean weather: highs in the 80s, light breezes, and high-noon sun that kept the "lights on" for spotting fish. For many in this group, like Ryan Tuck, who has joined me every year for the last five seasons, this trip is an annual tradition.
While most flats anglers obsess over the "Big Three" (Bonefish, Permit, and Tarpon), our crew has taken a different path. We aren't dedicated permit-heads; we cast at them when they swim by, and they typically refuse us—nothing new there! Instead, we’ve spent the last few years mastering the Big Barracuda. While bonefish and tarpon are generally agreeable, we’ve found that these plentiful, toothy predators have their own fascinating quirks and provide an incredible challenge.
Week Two: Bow Time & "Green Torpedoes"
After a much-needed off-day spent reading and swimming on the reef, I welcomed Bill and Tim for week two. Because of a few last-minute cancellations, it was just the three of us rotating between two guides, which meant an incredible amount of "bow time" for everyone.
Having already spent a week "tuned in," I rode along as a helper guide on their first day. We had a banner day for bonefish, including a 5–6 lb fish by Bill—a true trophy for the Xcalak flats.
A few moments from this week are permanently burned into my memory:
The Permit Chase: A pack of permit charging into a skinny-water bonefish flat while I was totally unprepared with the wrong fly. I spent 30 minutes on a foot chase, trying to keep up as they rooted around with their tails tipping in the air.
The Cuda Snack: Watching Tim lay a perfect 60-foot shot in front of a brilliant green barracuda silhouetted against a white sand patch, with Chetumal Cay in the background. The fish lazily swam over and inhaled the fly like a snack.
More Than Just the Fishing
As much as this annual pilgrimage is about the salt, it’s defined by the people. Ruben, our head guide, has been a rock for us over 42 days on the water. From tacos at Sylvia’s to Omar and his wife’s incredible kitchen skills, and late-night jam sessions with Alan on the deck, the memories are just as vibrant as the fishing.
Xcalak remains as unpretentious as it gets. We wake up to the Caribbean sunrise, chase shadows all day, and return to the palapa for a cold margarita and a shower to rinse off the salt.
Good times, great memories—I’m already counting the days until next year.